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Wednesday 9 June 2021

Further back in time - Bolingbroke Castle

As part of what I wanted to do this holiday was investigate places I've previously just whizzed past, Bolingbroke Castle was high on the list. Driving down the A-road towards Skegness, I've seen the brown English Heritage/tourist signs for it previously, and been intrigued, but never had time to stop. 


I love a castle - whether it's a re-constructed 'folly' like Castell Coch, a substantial ruin like Beaumaris, or even just a few bricks in the ground leaving almost everything to my imagination. Bolingbroke falls somewhere between the last two. There aren't really any steps to climb or dungeons to explore, but stand outside the marshy area which was formerly the moat and the walls clearly say 'castle' even though they barely reach courtyard height. Inside the courtyard the base layers of tower and curtain walls are clearly visible, and it's easy to imagine them full height in the castle's heyday.





 

This is the only remaining 'room', at the base of one of the towers, but information boards show the layout and explain each tower's use.



I did a full tour of the walls from inside, then a more slippery one following them on the outside. The old moat may be mostly overgrown with bulrushes but still as wet if you (or I) fall in.




The castle's claim to fame is as the birthplace of Henry Bolingbroke, son of John of Gaunt, and future king, Henry IV, after displacing Richard II. Shakespeare didn't like him, dubbing him 'this thorn, this canker' in contrast to 'sweet lovely rose', but it's probably through Shakespeare that most have heard of him.



 It's an unmanned site, with free entry, but no toilets/cafe, and only limited space for cars; another time I'd park on one of the straighter roads in the village and walk a little way rather than at the pull-in at the entry. The village itself is worth exploring and given more time (there's never enough!) I'd have walked further out along footpaths. 

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