Robin Hood's Bay - downhill then up

Whitby left me a little underwhelmed - too busy and commercial - but just a few miles south is the utterly charming village of Robin Hood's Bay, where houses tumble down the hillside to the sea, and there still seems an echo of smugglers moving their goods silently along the narrow alleys which pass between them.

One road leads down through the village but cars are only allowed down for access, so it's another place for walking.

 Downhill first this time, then the long slog back up.

I survived all this unusual exercise by stopping  for lunch on the way down at a lovely cafe called The Cove, situated on one of the side paths. At this point of the day it was warm and the interior coolness felt more appealing than the sunlit terrace with views over the sea.

Returning to the 'main' road we headed down to the sea.

When you've reached the bottom though you have to walk back up ... Thunder was rumbling around in the distance and rain starting to fall but not enough to have us dashing for the car (though with a hill to climb I've not sure I could have dashed) 

So we ambled back along the winding paths among the cottages

Stopping to look in shop windows or at the view out to sea. Fortunately I had my umbrella handy for when the rain DID start to fall, and we didn't get very wet.

And then the sun came out again.

Wandering side to side on the flatter streets, zigzagging up the hill instead of tackling it straight on, the walk back up didn't seem as difficult as I expected it to be.

It's a place I'd love to return to and explore further, perhaps even stay there and really get to know the back-ways away from the mass of visitors.

Whitby - and so many steps!

Our visit to Whitby started on the Park and Ride bus which took us down to the bus stop by the quayside. There was a market on and the area was busy and bustling, so we headed over the bridge to the old town, then up the steps to the Abbey.

There are allegedly 199 steps but apparently if you try to count them you'll never get the same amount twice. I didn't try as merely finding the energy to walk up them seemed like quite enough effort.

Taking my time gave up the chance to stop and look behind me at the view.

At the top, fortunately, there was lunch at outdoor tables at the youth hostel, with a fine view again over the town and a glimpse of a steam train heading out towards the moors

Up close, I found the Abbey ruins less impressive than I'd expected; just a shell of a building with a feeling that much has been allowed to grass over.

Back then, down a lane at the side of the Steps. I thought this would be easier but in places it was very precipitous.

And another stop for tea on reaching the bottom

 

Somewhere new - Whitby

I've holidayed here in the UK most of my life so I'm always a little surprised at the amount of places I HAVEN'T visited. 

Yorkshire generally is one. I've spent a couple of short breaks near Malham and Settle in recent years, but this summer was time to head for the coast, specifically the Whitby area.

We stayed a little inland, in the village of Sleights on the river Esk, and parked up to take the Park and Ride bus into town. Sitting upstairs on the front seats certainly gives you on interesting view of things, looking out over rooftops. 

The town itself was very busy so we headed over the bridge and up the many. many steps to the abbey which dominates the area. 

The next day we headed a little further afield, to Robin Hood's Bay which is delightful. despite the steps back up to the car park.

Both evenings we ended up at Sandsend just north of Whitby, eating chips and cake (not at the same time)

It's an area I'd definitely visit again, possibly for a longer period, as there are many more seaside villages and beaches to be explored plus the North York Moors inland. 

Settle

I don't know Yorkshire well, and wasn't quite sure what I was expecting of Settle - a depressed mill town or the sort of place that only comes alive on livestock market day, maybe? - but I was pleasantly surprised. 

It had quirky shops and tearooms in the centre of town, and quaint, narrow streets leading away from it.

We'd walked there from Langcliffe along a route called the Highway, which proved to be a great traffic-free, relatively level, tarmac-ed path with great views over the countryside with Settle nestled in the valley.

This route approaches via the higher part of Settle, so the streets this way are downhill.

Our first stop was the curiously named Car and Kitchen which has interesting gifts and an upstairs cafe with excellent cake.

I'd expected to see hikers in town but was surprised to discover that it seems to be quite a hub for cyclists. We saw several in and around town, and this sign outside a cycling shop proves its popularity

Knowing I'd got to walk home again restricted my wanderings round town itself but I spotted many interesting places which I'd love to visit.

Another interestingly named cafe - Ye Olde Naked Man - provided fuel for the journey home.

Then it was time to head back up the hill and along the Highway to Langcliffe.

The Highway near Settle