Salford

I'm not really a city person -give me countryside or seashore any day - but Manchester always intrigues me with its mix of old and new. I've posted before about exploring the Castlefields area and Salford Quays and Ordsall Hall but this time we were in the university area of Salford.

Despite the heavy traffic on Chapel Street there's a surprising amount of quiet to be found - just looking over the railing to see the Irwell flowing past, or walking alongside the river and through Peel Park

Late afternoon in November probably isn't the best time to visit and/or take photographs, but lights were twinkling along the bridge and roses continuing to bloom in the flower beds.

Peel Park (named after Prime Minister Sir Robert Peel) was opened in 1846, and renovated in 1917. Paths lead beside the river and through flower beds, there's a playpark for children, open spaces for dogs to runs, and at the centre a monument to Salford's first MP, Joseph Brotherton (apparently there used to be more statues but these have been dispersed to other locations or lost).  

Turning back to face Chapel Street I was again met by one of Manchester's juxtapositions of old and new - the Museum and Art Gallery to the right, the University building to the left.

Elsewhere, 'new' is definitely winning with high rise tower blocks soaring into the night sky, but someone at least is resisting gentrification and Salford's claimto be the 'Brooklyn of Manchester'.

 

Manchester - old and new

Another weekend in Manchester - and more new places to discover.

First off, Salford Quays. I've heard a lot about this area (in fact people seem surprised that I've never been on previous visits to Manchester), so as our daughter was at a Maker's Market in the area, I wanted to have a look around - both outside, and then round the Lowry Gallery itself.









The old quays have completely gone, their warehouses replaced by funky new housing developments.

Even the bridges are futuristic! 

This is definitely one of Manchester's modern areas, but it's more brutal concrete than, say, the high-rise glass buildings of Spiningfields, and it's not a look which appeals to me.















Inside the Lowry was confusing and very busy with a national gymnastics competition taking place in part of the building, but someone was on hand to point us in the direction of the gallery. As you might guess, a lot of space is given over to the paintings of LS Lowry. Oddly I found myself more attracted to his later works, scenes of industrial desolation, rather than the better known 'matchstalk men' paintings. The temporary exhibition - The State of Us - proved to be uncomfortable for both of us; very low level lighting plus flash of light and random noises from the displays played havoc with my sight and hearing, so we didn't stay long.




We'd stayed, as we often do, in an Air BnB and accidentally discovered that we were just a few hundred yards from  Ordsall Hall.












Once a manor house in the middle of fields and orchards, it's now an odd oasis of Tudor charm surrounded by modern houses and factories. This was much more my kind of thing!

Inside the rooms have been recreated much as they would have been in Tudor times - beds with hangings, a curtained bath, and (imitation) food waiting to be prepared in the kitchen.

















Outside there's a Tudor knot garden, an allotment demonstrating how the land was used during WW1, and a moat, usually dry under the wings of these wooden swans, but not last weekend.

It's that odd juxtaposition of old and new that always startles me in Manchester though.

Onward, on our way home, on the other side of Manchester, lies Lyme (famous for the Mr Darcy swimming exploits of the BBC/Colin Firth series of Pride and Prejudice) 

I didn't spot Mr D, not even when looking through this hidden peep-hole, or walking by the lake, but the house was fascinating - more elaborate and richly decorated than the severe straight lines of its exterior might lead you to expect.

It's now owned by the National Trust, and visitors encouraged to almost feel at home - to play the piano in the entrance hall, or billiards in the Long Gallery, or sit and read in the library. It's a large house though, with lots to explore and if we'd attempted any of them we'd probably never have got home.







As it was, we only had time for a brief look at the gardens before heading off. I'll be back in better weather to see more.

Spring in Derby

Last week I had 'downtown' shopping to do, and we deliberately parked a little away from the centre of Derby to catch this glorious springtime sight.

Most people, heading into the bus station or main shopping centre car parks, will miss it, but on the 'wrong' side of the river is a small grassed area with seats, trees, and in late winter/early spring this beautiful patch of crocus.

Last week they looked wonderful as spring had come on gently with no set-backs. Unfortunately, I doubt they look so good after Monday's snow.

Closer to the river there's a planting of daffodils waiting for slightly warmer weather, and this tree, which blossoms in late winter. Every year I intend to find out what it is, but still haven't.

It's a peaceful corner barely a few steps from the city centre. For some time there've been plans to change this part of the city for flood defence measures, hopefully this little area won't be affected.

Exploring Manchester without our guide

Last weekend we were in Manchester again, but this time left to our own devises while our daughter was busy at Stall, a pop-up Christmas market. Although we've explored quite a bit of the city it's always been with her along to show the way, so this time was more of an adventure.








She was based for the day in a new building (Kampus) next to an old canal, so on our first foray out we followed the water past the bars and clubs of the Gay village. It was a cold but brilliantly sunny day, the sky and water blue, and everything looking so pretty.













When the canal towpath came to an end we headed vaguely in the direction we thought 'town' lay, but without bothering to use a map our route was a little hit and miss. Even so we managed to find Manchester's Chinatown - well, how could we miss that magnificent arch? - the Art Gallery and a wonderful exhibition of ceramicist Halima Cassell's work, and the Christmas decorations outside the library.

Manchester Art Gallery

the gallery's amazing entrance hall

here and above, a couple of Halima Cassell's
intriguing pieces of work

For lunch we decided to head back to Kampus where one of the vendors was surprised we hadn't encountered the other fairs around the city, so our next excursion was a little more organised - head up the road and look for signs to the Town Hall. Off we went (after pizza)


The first thing we spotted was the Crown Court with its castle-like turrets and door

Then up the road we stumbled on Santa overseeing the fountains and a Christmas fair at Piccadilly gardens





























Deciding we should really follow signposts, we headed into the setting sun, and found the Town Hall and adjoining market almost next to the library where we'd been earlier!













This whole area was absolutely packed with people, so we had a quick look round (as best we could because of the crowds) before heading back to Kampus again

Fortified by chips and hot peas, we had time for one more short wander along the canal - now lit up for the evening, and looking so pretty.

Something I didn't realise till checking Google maps later was that we weren't far from the places we've visited before, so I can sort of claim to have walked across Manchester. No doubt though there'll be more to discover on another visit.