Crinan canal walk

I couldn't visit this part of Scotland and not go to Crinan, for a look at the boats and a walk along the canal. Unfortunately it turned out to be a shorter trip than planned as the rain started to fall.

We had time though for a walk round the canal basin, looking at modern leaisure yachts and old working puffers, and along the canal to Bellanoch.

The canal is unusual here, as after rising through a series of locks, it continues along the side of the hill up above sea level. At low tide sand and mud stretch into the distance but as the tide sweeps it becomes a sea loch. It's a strange, slightly surreal landscape, especially as visibility started to close in with the approaching drizzle. 

By the time we reached the large basin at Bellanoch I was convinced it had started to rain. I was glad to have made it to this point though, after seeing the same spot from on high a couple of days before.

By now the occasional drizzle had turned to steady rain and it was time though to head back before we got really wet. We were still wondering about the changes of tea and cake at the cafe, but then a deluge fell, and with only outdoor seating thoughts of food were forgotten as we headed back to our AirBnB.

 Fortunately the holiday didn't end on a wet note, as by evening the clouds had cleared and the sun put in a last minute appearance.

Ellenabeich

Being 'up north' (in comparison to Tayvallich where we were staying) we decided to travel a few more miles, across the 'bridge over the Atlantic' to the island of Seil, and the village of Ellenabeich.

Today Ellenabeich is a peaceful conservation village but its photogenic exterior hides a busier more industrial past, for the area used to be the site of huge slate quarries. 

Heading south lies a chain of island often marked on maps as 'the Slate Islands'; all once producers of this in-demand roofing material.  The area must have been very different from today. 

At Ellenabeich there are still signs of the past all around - lagoons that now fill the quarries,  remains of a huge dock, winching equipment, and, of course, those workmen's cottages that now look so quaint. 

In one of the cottages there's a museum that tells about the village's history but it was closed by the time we arrived. This dummy outside shows how smaller pieces of slate were cut by hand, though I'm not sure that wearing shoes on the wrong feet was part of the normal dress.

And a ferry takes visitors over to nearby Easdale island; another place filled with memories of the past. I've been before but we were a bit too late in the day this time.

 

Ardmaddy Castle Gardens

This was somewhere new for me and a rather serendipitous find which saved a disappointing day. 

For the second day of our holiday we headed out of the immediate Tayvallich area, 20 or so miles north with the intent of visiting the National Trust for Scotland's Arduaine Gardens (I was looking for something to do outdoors but nothing too strenuous after the previous day) but there was a hindrance to our plans. When we parked up we discovered that a large tree was causing concern and the garden entrance closed for safety of the public. Ho hum. 

While we were wondering what to do with the day we decided to have lunch at the Loch Melfort hotel next door (persuaded by the wonderful view from its terrace), and just inside the door I spotted a poster for Ardmaddy Castle Gardens, open through the National Garden Scheme during summer for charity. The day was saved!

The castle (more of a stately home really these days) sits on a knoll, facing south west out to sea, with the gardens sheltered behind.

September probably isn't the best time of year to visit a new garden. We'd already had some chilly nights in the Midlands, and I'm sure Scotland must have been colder. But there was still plenty to see.

Immediately behind the castle lies the walled garden - a mix of vegetable and flower beds, with a long herbaceous border running the length of one side.

Leaving through a small gate, a path leads over a stream and on into woodland.

We headed not along the track shown here but uphill, though fortunately not too much, before looping back down to the stream with its ornate bridge.

On the opposite side of the water, another path led uphill promising a view of the castle, but I ignored this and let my husband explore alone while I sat on the parapet and watched the water below.

When I joined him coming back downhill I realised I'd been sitting not far away from the water garden with lily ponds and a view back to the castle; a lovely restful spot so I sat there for a while as well before heading back out through the walled garden.

It was disappointing to have not been able to visit Arduaine, but this unexpected garden definitely made up for it. 

Loch Barnluasgan and Bellanoch Viewpoint

This started out as a short, flat walk, just round the loch along a path suitable for baby buggies or wheelchairs.

 

It's a pleasant spot with water lilies flowering in the calm waters of the loch, trees covered in weird and wonderful lichens, and in summer dragonflies flit around. 

It's close to the main Knapdale beaver watching site, and their activity - distinctive gnawing of fallen trees and such - can be seen here though I've never spotted them themselves.

Things got more energetic - and tiring  - when I decided to add on a walk to the Bellanoch viewpoint. 750 metres can't be far, I thought. And anyway, it's uphill, so every return step is downwards. I can turn round when I start to feel I've gone too far.

The route follows a forest road - in fact cars can allegedly use it to reach a wildlife visitor centre but it's loose gravel and while it's a good path, I'm not sure it's a good road unless you've got a 4x4. After the visitor centre the road deteriorates but is still clear  

 But having gone up ... and up ... and up it turned out that I then had to walk DOWN to see the view. 

I nearly gave up then. I could see the view - sort of - and didn't expect it to be much different at the viewpoint. But worried about missing something wonderful I sent my more energetic husband ahead to check how much further I had to go, and how good the view was, and he came back with photos that inspired me to walk that bit further, even knowing I was going to end up walking back uphill. 

So I, not quite inched, but walked gradually downhill, ready at any moment to turn round if I thought the walk back would be too much, till the trees fell away and the horizon opened up before us with the most amazing view out over Crinan Ferry past small islands to Mull.

Closer to hand, though partly hidden by the hillside, was Bellanoch canal basin, with Crinan canal winding past it on its way to the sea, and the river Add running alongside while the tide moved in over the wide expanses of sand and mud-flats.

Inland the river snakes across the tidal flats that lain Banks in The Crow Road turned into Upper Loch Crinan, with his fictional town of Gallanach situated somewhere on the edge of the distant hills.

It was definitely worth making the effort for, though my legs weren't too happy at the first uphill section as we walked back, but at least the remaining bits were downhill then flat around the loch!